One of the most common inquiries we get for training has to deal with aggressive or reactive behavior. Aggressive or reactive behavior can look like: growling, barking, lunging, snapping, and of course biting. This behavior can be displayed toward other dogs, humans, small animals, livestock, etc. And though it is one of the most common problems, it can also be tough to diagnose and treat it. Aggressive/reactive behavior in dogs is typically a symptom, not the entire problem itself. Most dogs that display aggressive or reactive behavior have something else going on underneath. Insecurity, low confidence, fear, history of reinforcement, genetics, etc. That’s why it’s so important to hire a professional to help you diagnose the problem and come up with a training plan to help fix or manage it. Aggression training and reactivity training is not and should never be “one size fits all”. If a trainer, or anyone in your circle, is recommending putting a tool on the dog (e-collar/shock collar, prong collar, choke chain, etc.) and simply correcting the dog until they stop behaving a certain way, please seek additional guidance. This WILL make matters worse.
Disclaimer: As with all online education, tread lightly. Aggression and reactivity is multifaceted and quite nuanced, and sometimes the training techniques you try to implement yourself can make the situation worse… It’s always best to hire a pro for on-site assessment and help!
Below I will list out different types of aggression and some tips on how to work through them/understand them. Keep in mind, every trainer’s explanation of reactivity and aggression will differ. There is no set in stone “scale” to diagnose why your dog is acting reactive or aggressive… However, the reasons I lay out below should hopefully give you a better idea of what could be going on, and set you in the right direction. When in doubt, call a professional!
So let’s get started!
Fear-based reactivity/aggression: I would argue that 90% of aggression cases start out as fear based reactivity. This type of aggression typically stems from insecurity and low confidence. These traits can develop for a multitude of reasons, including genetics, negative experiences, lack of socialization, etc. Fear- based aggression typically starts out with a dog displaying less aggressive behaviors, such as whale eye, lip licking, creating, growling, etc. But unfortunately these behaviors are often ignored or coddled, leading the dog to then display more overt aggressive behaviors and creating a habit out of it.
When we are dealing with fear-based aggression or reactivity, it’s best to start with threshold training, showing the dog their trigger at a distance and working your way closer as the dog gets comfortable. This can take a long time, so don’t rush it. The goal is to keep your dog under threshold and build positive associations, without reinforcing the reactive or aggressive behavior accidentally.
Leash reactivity/aggression: The leash is notorious for causing an increase in frustration in dogs on walks, leading to frustration based reactivity that can look a lot like aggression. A lot of the times, dogs that have leash reactivity are perfectly fine with other dogs and people while off leash. The leash is for your dogs reactivity or aggression, your best bet is to change your dog’s association to the leash and teach them how to respond to leash pressure/corrections. This process will need to begin in a sterile, non-distracting environment until your dog reliably responds to a leash pop by looking to you for guidance. Pair small leash pops with high value food and apply movement to your training session to get your dog to move toward/with you. It also helps to practice engagement, showing your dog that YOU are the most important thing in the environment, nothing else.
*Dogs that have leash reactivity should not meet another person or dog while on leash until the leash reactivity has disappeared completely. Allowing them to greet another person or dog after displaying the reactive behavior only reinforces the behavior.
Barrier reactivity/aggression: Barrier aggression typically takes place behind a fence, through a window, or in a kennel. Is most often caused by frustration, similar to leash reactivity. Your first goal here should be to simply not allow the behavior. Don’t put your dog into situations without supervision in which they normally become reactive/aggressive. You should always be there to monitor and interrupt any reactivity, with high value food or a toy to reward alternative behavior!
Dominance aggression: We see this mainly between dogs of the same-sex. It is not uncommon to see a female dog try to dominate another female dog, or a male dog try to dominate another male. We do also see dogs that inherently have dominant personalities with all (or most) dogs. It’s important to monitor these dogs, and only pair them with dogs with appropriate temperaments to avoid altercation.
Also: Don’t be misled, spaying or neutering won’t always “fix” dominant behavior, especially if the dog(s) have a history of fighting, or less than ideal behavior, toward other dogs. The best way to work through dominance aggression this is to establish yourself as the leader in the household so that your dog(s) don’t try to take matters into their own hands. You should have a very structured lifestyle and routine with your dogs, so that life is more predictable for them. Chaos and confusion can often lead to aggressive outbursts for dogs like this. Control is key!
Territorial aggression: Certain breeds are more prone to territorial aggression, as that is what they were bred to do. This simply comes down to genetics and understanding the breed/breed mix that you have and the characteristics they carry. Rottweilers, Dobermans, German Shepherds, Bull Mastiffs, livestock guardian breeds, etc. Breeds that are genetically designed to protect, will always try to do so.
Territorial aggression is typically treated/managed similarly to barrier aggression, but again… Genetics always play a role. Your best bet is to ensure you understand the characteristics of the dog breed/mix that you plan to get, and make sure it fits in with your lifestyle.
True genetic aggression: I say “true” simply because most of the dogs we work with do not have true, genuine aggression. Most of the time the aggressive or reactive behavior is based in fear, frustration, lack of clear expectations, and historical reinforcement. But there are certain breeds out there that are prone to aggressive behavior, whether people want to believe it or not. If there is aggression or reactivity in your dog’s lineage(if you know it), chances are your dog may struggle with the same thing. Or if your perfectly friendly, happy go lucky puppy hits maturity around 10 months old and starts deciding they no longer like other dogs, chances are it’s a genetic predisposition. This doesn’t necessarily mean it will turn into aggression, as long as you respect your dog’s wishes and don’t put them into situations they don’t want to be in. Dogs don’t need doggy friends… They just need you!
Reminder: Vet check! If your dog starts displaying random, unwarranted reactive or aggressive behavior, call your vet. Most of the time we are able to find a trigger/reason for the aggression, but if not, it’s possible there is something else going on. Unknown injury/sickness, thyroid imbalance, tumors, etc. Physical and neurological deficits can lead to behavioral concerns, so a vet check is always warranted!
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